Hooray for queso, especially when it’s draped over tacos

That Soft Cheese Tacos are an item, a Dallas specialty, had escaped me until I read about them in Lisa Fain’s upcoming cookbook, “Queso! Regional Recipes for the World’s Favorite Chile-Cheese Dip” (Penguin Random House). The lactose-intolerant and eaters of healthful weeknight meals must turn away: This is unapologetic, almost-evil, cheese-on-cheese action. (In truth, I was expecting the accompanying nutritional analysis to be worse than it is.)

Fain, author of the Homesick Texan blog and a couple of cookbooks, knows how to build a good queso and explains why these are called tacos instead of what they look like. An enchilada sauce or gravy is chile-based, in short. Otherwise, the corn tortillas rolled with straight-up Colby Jack inside and draped with a smooth blend of American cheese, milk, cornstarch, seasonings and tomato-onion-chile pepper come together pretty much like enchiladas.

You will have enough queso left over to warm up and dip into a few nights later, and for that you will be grateful.

Soft Cheese Tacos

4 to 6 servings (makes about 5 cups of queso)

Serve with a crisp salad.

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